Resource guarding is a very common and normal behaviour for dogs. It's never done from a place of wanting to hurt others, but rather because they feel afraid/unsure to lose something they deem valuable there and then. It can be a bit challenging to fully and properly tackle resource guarding (so be sure to reach out if you have any concerns!), but I wanted to share with you the following steps you can use to react if you start experiencing it. 1. As soon as you believe your dog is resource guarding (stiff body, growling, snarling) stop and wait. Don't say anything, relax as much as you can, focus your attention on something else like your phone, and don't move much. Remember that your dog is at that moment likely feeling concerned or nervous about the situation, and no matter what you say you likely won't talk them into changing their mind/emotions. The best you can do is wait. 2. The moment your dog stops showing you a more relaxed demeanour (softer gaze, loose tail wag, panting), wait a little bit more. This is when your dog is basically going through a wide range of emotions, from worried and concerned to unsure.. to hesitant.. to curious.. to calm.. to relaxed. 3. Once you're feeling confident that your dog's body language is showing a more calm and relaxed demeanour, the next thing you will want to do is toss either a toy or treat (not the one being guarded) away from your dog and wait for them to go towards it. When they do, you can then start talking to them, praising and rewarding that your dog has chosen to no longer guard and go do something away from it instead. (This is when you can take away the item they were resource guarding if it's not something they should've had, otherwise, I would give them the room to go back to it so you can practice this exercise if you wish, and eventually completely eradicate it as a result.) If your dog is feeling more relaxed but doesn't seem to want to take space from the item being guarded, you might need to bring out a strong tasty smell to lure them away. I recommend doing this if your dog has grabbed something they shouldn't have, to more quickly guide them away from it. Otherwise, I suggest practicing the longer route as it provides more room for your dog to make good choices on their own.

There's really no need to constantly buy new dog toys when you know just how to make the most of the ones you have! Let's get to it: 1. Rotate your dog’s toys by keeping them stored away, keeping only 1 or 2 out and available for your dog. This will help keep your dog's toys interesting and avoid having to constantly buy new ones. Bringing out a toy from where they’re stored will also help get your dog’s attention as needed. 2. The toys that have little crevices and crannies like tug-and-pull toys can be used to hide kibble and treats inside of them, turning them into a mentally stimulating exercise as well. 3. Bring one or two toys with you out on your walks. There are so many distracting things going on during walks that a toy can help redirect your dog’s focus as well as give them an outlet should they ever feel tired, frustrated or just in need of a fun break. 4. Have 2-3 Kongs lined up in the freezer, all with different flavours so you can take one out when it’s time for your puppy or dog to relax, take a break, and soothe as they lick and chew it. 5. Jam a small-sized toy or Kong through the bars of your dog’s crate and lightly line it with the flavour of a tasty treat or healthy peanut butter option. This will incentivize them to go inside their crate (do not close the door though) and spend time there in an enjoyable way.

Let's go over three ways I recommend you practice regularly with your dog to help him or her feel more mellow, relaxed, and tired! 1. Provide physical stimulation by playing fetch, using a flirt pole, tugging and pulling, and even digging. These physical outlets provide activities that will feel pretty natural to most dogs. You can use the flirt pole both indoors or outdoors, to help encourage your dog to direct any prey drive towards it (probably the fastest way to get your dog to focus their energy on you). Just make sure that you keep that game, in particular, short in duration, as dogs can easily overexert themselves and not know how to take a break from it on their own. But it's definitely a game you can try incorporating into your walks to get even more out of them, depending on your dog's comfort level. Tugging and pulling are also fantastic ways to engage with your dog more, especially on walks, and have them burn even more physical energy quickly, in a fun way. Lastly digging - if your dog loves to dig, there is no harm in taking them to a park or area where there's sad and your dog can dig to his heart's content! Even better if you try hiding a toy of theirs in the sand, for some extra searching fun. Your dog will be sure to go back home tired. 2. Provide mental stimulation through problem-solving exercises like puzzles, snuffle mats, and busy boxes. It's easy to create games and activities where your dog gets to use their nose and mind to figure out how to get to each piece of their treats or even their kibble! Doing so through problem-solving games like puzzles and snuffle mats, and even better busy boxes (DIY cardboard boxes where you hide within it other smaller boxes, empty toilet roll papers, towels, and toys) for your dog to have to search through and get to each delicious treat! 3. Try 1 and 2 on your walks! Yes, bring the flirt pole, the snuffle mats, the toys, balls, and any other toys you have with you that'll be sure to transform your walk into the most engaging and stimulating activity. Follow that with some additional mental stimulation outlets once you're back from your walk for your dog to continue having fun with, to ensure that you're left with a happy, tired pooch!

Myself and other dog trainers I know get asked this question quite often when the topic of harnesses comes up during our training sessions. And to cut to the chase, the short answer is no. But the longer answer is that any tool or product (excluding items designed to inflict pain) you use will require time, practice, patience, and the right training methods to help you and your dog reach your goals together. Should you decide to get a harness and walk your dog with it instead of a collar, an irrefutable argument for harnesses is that they are a far safer option as they relieve your dog's neck of any pressure (especially with growing puppies) as well provide a more secure option to a collar that could potentially slip off or break with enough pulling or pressure. The most ideal harnesses, particularly Freedom (No Pull) Harnesses will come with a clip at the back, as well as the front. Both clips can be used together in unison with a double-clip leash to better guide heavy pullers, and the front clip on its own can also be relied on to guide an eager, happy-go-lucky dog by redirecting their chest and body towards you so that you can further guide them. The back clip can also be used as you work your way to more and better communication with your dog on walks (a must!), but this is where a lot of pet parents will think that harnesses encourage pulling, seeing how sled dogs wear them to do their job and for good reason. Even if you were to not at all consider the suggestion that harnesses make for a better training and walking tool, ultimately if you have a dog that is already pulling on their collar, switching to a harness will at the very least add a layer of safety to your outings.

There are so many products available to help you train your puppy or dog that it can make it tough to know where to begin. Here are 5 dog training items I strongly recommend. None of these rely on negative/corrections or punishment and will be sure to help you maintain a great relationship with your dog! 1. Food Puzzles and Snuffle Mats Though food puzzles and snuffle mats are meant to be used more for feeding, enrichment, and mental stimulation, rather than for dog training, I've included them because these can truly make a world of difference by providing your dog with healthy outlets to their mental energy, which will help them have an easier time focusing during training sessions, as well as taking a break from them and learning how to unwind/regulate their feelings whenever you're both taking a break from your training session. 2. Harnesses There are many different types of harnesses available, but one I prefer using above most is the Freedom (No Pull) Harness, mainly due to the adjustable straps and that it has two clips for your dog's leash to go on. You don't need to use both unless you have a heavy puller, but I definitely prefer using the front clip the most, especially when first starting, as I find it more easily helps guide a dog towards you and walk with you. An important thing to note with harnesses, no matter the harness you choose, is that what will ultimately lead to your dog walking well with it is proper dog training and ongoing access to proper and new physical and mental enrichment outlets. Pairing positive reinforcement with harnesses, as well as practice, patience, and dedication, you will be able to reach your goals! 3. Dog Training/Treat Pouch The most valuable part of a dog training treat pouch may be the treats for your dogs, but for you is what it represents: timing! Having easy and quick access to a treat (aka a gold star) for when your dog happens to do something you like is key. Whether it's simply that your dog chose to sit or lay down, or go in their crate without being asked, all and more are wanted behaviours that you want to reinforce, and a treat-filled pouch (you can/should use kibble too) is one of the most practical ways to do it! 4. Tug & Pull Toys You may be thinking that I'm recommending toys so that your dog can play with them, but I'm really suggesting you get them, especially tug-and-pull toys so that your dog can play WITH you! There is so much bonding, trust, and communication that gets built on and reinforced in a positive and fun way when you play with your dog. If you're unsure what safe and proper play looks like, it's important to reach out to your trainer so they can advise. Just like us, there's a time and place for everything, and making sure that your dog and you are playing at the right time and in the right way will only guarantee you success. Yes, dogs should also be able to play on their own, especially when you're busy. But in order to be as successful as possible with dog training, you want to make sure that you've also truly worked on establishing a great relationship that will encourage and motivate your dog to listen and WANT to train with YOU! 5. Kongs Kongs are the icing on the cake! After you've provided your dog with mental stimulation outlets (puzzles, snuffle mats, training classes, even nosework!) as well as physical stimulation exercises (fetch, tug and pull games, agility training), dogs don't always know exactly how to help themselves calm down and feel relaxed. This is where items like Kongs and licking mats become super handy. Gnawing, chewing, and licking help dogs, especially puppies, mellow out and be able to settle on their own. BONUS TIP! I strongly recommend considering getting and putting a cat bell on your dog (especially during puppyhood) so that if your dog is sleeping and you hear the bell, that it may mean that they're waking up so that you can take them out for a bathroom break and/or can provide them with attention and what they need before they feel the need to practice having to come to you and potentially bark, whine or nip at you to get something to happen. Think of the bells as a 'heads up!', so that your dog learns with time that everything he/she needs is provided first and foremost through patience and waiting, trusting that you know what and when they need things from you.

Yes, at the top of the list is your dog loves you because you ARE their whole world! So that’s one of the reasons. Let’s tackle the other 2: Anxiousness This likely isn’t a big surprise, as your dog may have been displaying this behaviour for some time and likely has other ways of showing signs of uncertainty or anxiety, even separation anxiety. This could be due to your dog not having yet learned the best practices (relaxation, reinforcing calm behaviour) with you that help him or her understand that time and distance apart is not a bad thing, but something everyone can look forward to, even for just a little and build from there. Anxiety is of course different for every dog and many different triggers may cause this, which is why it’s important to seek our a dog trainer’s support and knowledge in helping you understand how to guide your dog before, during, and after moments where he or she feels as though the best and only option they have is to continuously follow you around your home. Until then, the next reason is one you can Begin putting into practice sooner than later and likely start seeing a major difference in your dog’s behaviour, in many ways! Boredom One of the biggest reasons we love dogs is because they have the will to do what it takes (for us and themselves) to move forward! But when it comes to relentlessly moving as your shadow as you walk around inside your house, one major reason for this may be due to a lack of proper stimulation outlets. This doesn’t mean your dog isn’t getting enough exercise, or that he or she needs more walks. But rather, this means that your dog following you around could be their way to let you know that they’ve still got a bit (or a lot) of energy left to put to good use! Most commonly it’s mental energy that our average household dogs tend to store inside their mind, on a daily basis, until they feel as though the time has come to find an outlet that will do the job! And that’s where following you around comes in! But recognizing this could be the reason behind it, opens up a whole new world for you and your dog as you can then begin exploring fun activities you can put into place on a daily basis! Lookup nose games to challenge your dog’s mind, as well as food and snuffle puzzles that can and should replace your dog’s bowl for further daily enrichment. For physical activities, continue going on your walks but supplement them with a fun flirt pole toy that you can use both indoors and outdoors! This toy is one of the quickest and most fun ways to get your dog’s physical energy out! There you have it! Don’t forget that your pup loves you, and that potential anxiety is something you can get dog training support but what can help a lot is practicing fun, daily enrichment activities! Did you learn something new from this post? Let us know at info@pmez.ca.

Prong collars are meant to cause dogs physiological harm (on purpose), not only physically, but mentally as well. They can be very detrimental to your relationship with your dog, just like all other aversive training methods. Prong collars are designed to stun your dog by piercing your dog's neck the moment you pull or tug on their leash. Doing this makes it so your dog is more likely to stop what they're doing in order to avoid feeling that pain again. And so, to avoid inflicting physical pain to your dog and instead of using a prong collar, you should consider using either a flat collar or even better a harness, as well as the support of positive reinforcement training to instead work on guiding your dog towards success in a fun, encouraging, and harm-free way. In addition to keeping your dog away from an aversive tool like a prong collar, another reason to not use prong collars is that it's not a tool that is designed to help you and your dog better understand one another, particularly when your dog is struggling in a social setting. Aversive methods like prong and shock collars aim to simply stun your dog, regardless of how they're feeling or why. Needless to say, although you might find those types of results using this tool, you might also find that other behavioural issues may appear as a result of not having addressed the problem as a whole, by understanding why it's happening in the first place and providing your dog with a new 'replacement' behaviour that you're both happy with.

Getting a puppy? Wondering what you should go shopping for? Let’s go through a list of must-have puppy items (worth considering if you’re getting an older dog too!) that I recommend getting before or after bringing home your new pooch. Cat bell Are we starting the list with a cat product? Yes! Think of a cat bell in the same way as a baby monitor for a newborn baby. A little cat bell on your pup’s collar can let you know when he/she is just getting ready to wake up and perhaps needs to pee? Poop? Or simply spend time with you! Responding to a cat bell will prevent your pup from feeling the need to let you know that they need something themselves, through nipping, barking, whining, etc. Who doesn't like to have their needs met without having to ask? While on the topic of bells, what about potty bells by the door? Our thinking is that if you use a cat bell or if you know your pup well, then your dog will likely not need to let you know when they need something. Bells attached to the door can also be a way that very smart dogs can indicate that they're bored and just want to step outside/are in need of attention. All of which is preventable! Collar & harness Even if you don't believe or like using harnesses, either because you're been told that harnesses encourage pulling (which is incorrect), if there is one thing about harnesses that's irrefutable is that harnesses are the safest option for dogs, especially puppies. A properly fit harness is very difficult for a dog to accidentally slip out of. But above all, puppies who wear harnesses are then at zero risk of developing any neck injuries while they're still young, because their leash will be clipped to their chest or back, instead of their neck. And safety is simply #1! What about collars? Get one, even if you get a harness, because you want to use harnesses mostly when you're going to take your dog for a walk or go to a social setting. While a collar can be worn for longer periods and hold their relevant tags and information. Pee pads Prior to your pup being ready to start going potty outside, pee pads are still the number 1 option as far as indoor potty training goes. This is because they are easy to clean, meaning they will leave little to no odors behind (unlike grass patches or other options) and the goal will be to stop using pee pads sooner than later, as you get to know your dog's bladder better and better. There are exceptions to this recommendation, however, such as if your puppy or dog has a really tough time not chewing destroying them when they're out (please consult your trainer if this is the case) or if you want to opt for a plastic or fake grass alternative that you can simply wash often, not avoid having to purchase, use, and throw away a large number of pee pads. Crate The way we see a crate should be the same as the way we see our bedroom. It's the place where we go to rest, take a break, calm down, relax, and sleep after a long day of work, or simply when we need a nap! Crate training also encourages pet parents to avoid using the crate as a means of punishment, or giving a dog, especially a puppy, a time out as this can cause frustration for them and they won't always fully understand why they got placed in there unless, you practice guiding them mostly because you know they're feeling sleepy, and are in need of rest. Crate cover Every crate should come with a crate cover! Covers help make your dog's crate feel a little bit more like a den that a dog would burrow into because it's darker and drowns out exterior noise. Perfect for all dogs, as well as puppies and sensitive dogs. You will want to be most mindful with long-haired breeds and dogs who get hot easily, as this can instead make for more of an overly warm room that your dog won't find comfortable. To prevent this, make sure the room in which your dog's crate is in is well ventilated, and that their bedding also helps them feel cool. Want to know what type of bedding is best for your dog's breed? Click here to find and join its corresponding Facebook group where you can talk with pet parents who live with your dog's breed and know better than anyone else! Dog bed Speaking of bedding, selecting the right bed for your dog is key! Especially when you're hoping that your dog will learn to stay on it, particularly if you're not relying on their crate all the time. If you chose to place it inside your dog's crate, our recommendation is that you make sure that it doesn't the inside of the crate in full, so that your dog has the option between laying on their bed or directly on the crate tray. Some dogs like that! Especially when they feel too warm. Portable carrier Yes, this one won't be applicable to all dogs, depending on their breed, but chances are that while your pup is still really young, it will still fit in a portable carrier bag designed for dogs. This is a great means of transportation for them, especially when going to new and very stimulating places like the veterinary or groomer. Not having to worry about walking all the way in can be helpful for a puppy. You can also work and train your puppy to like its carrier by turning it into an outlet for them to snuffle food inside it. Licky mat Licky mats and Kongs are perfect for when puppies have had a chance to play and run around, as well as use their brain to learn new tricks, try out new puzzles and other mentally stimulation games. They're not the best at providing much of a challenge for smart dogs, so be sure to use them to help your puppy lick, relax and mellow out. Kongs/chew toys It's no secret that dogs need to chew, especially when they're still growing. This helps them feel better, soothe and relax. And just like licky mats, it's best to provide them when your dog is feeling mellow and n needs to just have something to nibble on, before a nap or bedtime. The misconception about Kongs and chew toys is that they provide mental enrichment, which they do to a certain extent, especially for very young puppies but as far as problem-solving and mental stimulation, you should look into other options first and have Kongs or chew toys act more like a pacifier for a baby. Tug and pull toys A must! Dogs naturally tug and pull with their bodies when they play with one another, or when they find an object they want to start a game with. It's natural for them and really satisfying. And contrary to popular belief, this isn't something that neither instigates prey drive, 'aggression', or any kind of 'dominance'. If your dog exhibits any of those things, it wouldn't be because of a game that is meant for dogs to feel good playing together, and build trust and companionship, no different than how we see sports and other competition and game-like activities. And speaking of building trust, this also applies to dog-to-human relationships! So get on the ground, grab a tug-and-pull toy, and do your best to get your dog interested in playing a game with you! Do keep it short and sweet but trust us when we say that this will only help in strengthening your bond with your dog, and let them know that it's fun to do things with and for you. Balls Fetch, digging and hiding them, pulling treats out of them are all ball-related activities that dogs love doing with you, but also on their own. Get all different types of balls for your dog and keep them on a rotation, to continuously keep your dog guessing and engaged! Snuffle mats Suffle mats are a human-made recreation of a dog's grass-like environment where they would scavenge and search for bits of food to eat. Bringing home a snuffle mat for your dog and even going as far as using it to replace his or her dog bowl is something your dog will thank you for. It's also a great way to help them burn energy, slow down their eating, and slow down their energy as a whole, especially after a long, over-stimulating day. Food puzzles Compared to snuffle mats, food puzzles are a more challenging, generally plastic-made, snuffling and scavenging option for dogs. Typically much more difficult and problem solving-like than snuffle mats, these are great for feeding your dog, slowing them down, but above all providing them with a very engaging exercise for their brain on a daily basis. Getting a more challenging level to start instead of an easy one is recommended, as you can always find ways to make it easy for your dog and go from there without having to purchase multiple levels. Doggy Water bottles Water bottles are my preferred method of giving my pup water (unless I need to be away from them for long periods of time) as opposed to water bowls, mainly because it makes it easier to keep track of their water intake (preventing unnecessary pee accidents), especially with multiple-member households and it also creates for a great opportunity to share a moment with your dog as you provide them their water directly to them, instead of them going to their water bowl on their own with little to no interactions with you at such a young age when sharing should be a top priority. Winter gear Make sure that your pup's body temperature is where it needs to be at all times. Even if you've gotten your pup way before the cold winter months, now is the perfect time to begin socializing them with their winter coat and boots, so that by the time the cold weather comes, you're all set and ready to face it together! Waist leash The umbilical cord exercise is one of my favourites and the best way it can be done it's with a waist leash. The exercise consists of walking around your home with your dog and rewarding them for choosing to join you on your chores and other activities so that they find pleasure in walking alongside you. This also helps minimize surprise potty training accidents and if you use a waist leash, you will be hands-free to do what you need around your home. Get one that comes with, or add to this a treat pouch for extra pet parent awesomeness. Short leash Start walking your dog on a short leash. By walking in and out of your home randomly, to help him or her get used to the idea of simply stepping out with you but comfortable coming back with you as you need. You can get a longer leash (often called a log line) as they get older and you feel as though you have more and more trust in them outside. Nail clipper/trimmer Probably the least fun item on the list, for both your pup and you, but a definite must. Grooming is inevitable, whether you practice your way to doing it for your dog their entire life, or if you hire someone. But one of the most challenging aspects of getting your dog groomed is their nails getting clipped. This is where you can do a lot to help prevent future discomfort, by socializing them to different types of nail clippers and trimmers. Consult with your future groomer, I'm sure that they'll be happy to share any tips that'll also help them do their job more easily!

Dog walking is wonderful. It can be a great enrichment outlet for your dog and it's one of the best daily activities that’ll help you and your dog form a strong bond. Behaviour Modification: Walking with your dog should be a fun and pleasant experience for you both no matter what. However, the reality is that not all dogs and pet parents feel this way. Particularly if you're experiencing dog reactivity, barking, lunging, or constant leash-pulling, or perhaps your walks are overall great, but you feel like your dog is coming home feeling like he needs to do more, or overstimulated and can't easily relax. Regardless of what you're going through, the most common origin of leash walking concerns is a potential disconnect between the pet parent(s) and their dog. I believe that establishing a solid, trusting, and positive relationship and connection with your dog is the golden key to then being able to more successfully and reasonably expect them to make good decisions on walks, and in general. Here's how you can go about establishing the type of relationship with your dog that'll help provide you both with pleasant experiences on your walks: - Play different daily types of games indoors with your dog. Mental and physical stimulation games are the starting point to making your dog feel good, and like they just couldn't ask for anything more. Running around together, playing fetch, tug & pull games and some friendly wrestling will do the trick! And for mental enrichment, you can check out our Enrichment Ideas page. - Now that you're forming a fun and engaging connection with your dog, go through the following steps to help them feel good about the simple idea of going for a walk with you. Yes, you read correctly. Ensuring your dog feels good about the mere thought of going for a walk with you is extremely important, a part of proper socialization, and the starting point to what will ultimately help them leave unwanted behaviours behind, replacing them with choosing to focus their attention on you! Step #1. Make sure you're feeling good yourself! Are you in a bad or unhappy mood? Perhaps it's best to stick to some fun indoor games, and a quick bathroom break, and leave it at that for now. This is because our dogs can and will pick up on how we're feeling through our emotions and body language. Step #2. Make sure you have the proper gear! My personal favourite walking tool that I trust the most when taking a dog for a walk is a dog walking harness, particularly a freedom harness. I find it's the most comfortable type of harness for dogs of all sizes, breeds, and demeanours. While it also eliminates any and all pressure on their neck, minimizing any risk of injury or discomfort. Step #3. Take things slow and be as patient as you can. Your dog will be in no rush unless you are. When going for a walk there is really no clock or timer, at least not for your dog. And so it's important that you really take your time when stepping out of your home, or going through any step in your journey together, for that matter. When starting your walk, you can even try pretending like you forgot your keys or wallet and head back in, and back out, and repeat as you walk a little bit further out each time. This will encourage your dog to pay a bit more attention to you as you change directions. Step #4. Be considerate and mindful of how your dog is feeling as well. Dogs learn by association and every step you take with your dog, it's a step that is reinforcing how your dog is feeling as a result. This means that if your dog is feeling nervous, unsure, or worried, it can be a good idea to take a few steps back, reset, and re-asses. Instead of trying to nudge, force or talk your dog into moving onward with the walk. Doing this will let your dog know that you're paying close attention to how they're feeling and not pushing them too far out of their comfort zone just yet. As a result, your dog's trust in you will only increase with time, and encourage them to more confidently take that next step (or leap!) with you, wherever you go together. Step #5. Be as aware and in tune with your environment as possible. Dogs react to the world around them and not everything makes 100% sense to them, no matter how obedient or well-trained a dog is. This is why you want to keep an eye not only on how your dog is feeling but also on what's going on around them. A helpful idea would be to leave your headphones at home! For example, if your dog hears a loud motorcycle approaching and he's acting hesitant at the idea of walking in its direction, you can help your dog by taking space/walking away from it for now. And on another walk, you can tackle that particular concern by walking near a parked motorcycle to start and rewarding your dog for feeling okay near it, moving a little closer to it each time. Try these steps, and feel free to treat dog walks as though you're introducing the concept of going for them to a brand new puppy! Doing so will allow you to take a good step back and see where your concerns with your dog lie and why so that you can further break down those situations and environments, and make them more manageable for you both. - If you're having difficulty handling your dog, before you've even left your doorstep, chances are your dog is either feeling overly excited or aroused, under/overstimulated, or perhaps even fearful. In this case, you can take a page out of step #1 and keep the walk as short as possible. Next, when it's no longer an immediate need to go walk, and your dog has done his business outside, an exercise you can practice is bringing out your dog's leash and/or harness back out again from the drawer, when he's feeling calm and relaxed, and just placing it on the counter nearby. You can do this often and at random times, for short periods. Doing so will get your dog's brain thinking, wondering why you're not heading out for a walk already. But the moment where they decide to settle and relax (all while you about your day), you can then provide them with a tasty treat in small pieces so you can repeat this often. This lets them know that you were just bringing out their leash, simply to associate a calm feeling to the idea of it. - Want to work on training your dog to heel, recall, and/or overall good leash manners and obedience on walks? Awesome! The best route for that will definitely be either hiring a private trainer or joining a group class. Either way, Having practiced our ideas and methods will make it much more likely for your dog to succeed and reap all the benefits from the training program you decide upon. Just make sure that you and your dog feel 1000% comfortable with the ideas, methods, and tools your trainer presents you with. Unfortunately, items like shock collars, prong/pinch collars, and halties are easily recommended to pet parents purely because they can provide you with 'quicker' results and get your dog to do what you want on walks. But aside of being harmful, uncomfortable for dogs to wear, and mostly taking into consideration what your wants are first, instead of the dog's needs, another problem with these products is that they don't address the root of an issue, thus making it possible for another unwanted behavioural issue to take its place. A dog that feels misunderstood, forced, stressed, and uncomfortable will need to resort to ways of coping with those feelings, and that can lead to further barking, growling, digging, lunging, fearful reactions, and even aggression. - If you've gone through all our suggestions from this article and our others on dog walking and leash training, and you're having moments or even more so random surprises or instances on walks where you're just not sure how to help your dog behave calmly, and it feels like they're no longer listening, the best thing you can do is remain calm and take space with your dog. What happens in the outside world is and will always be out of your control, but no matter what happens, what will remain after you experience a speedbump along your walk with your dog is their leftover feeling from it all, and you. And so our recommended go-to response to any unpredictable situation is to remain calm and sure of yourself, as you guide your dog by walking them away. I don't personally recommend using any verbal or physical cues if your dog is feeling stressed (save those for later!) but rather just use your body to move away and your dog will naturally follow, walk on, engage, and reconnect with you., Right before you bring out and present them with a nice rewarding treat, in the form of a tasty snack, your voice, and your affection. Practice this regularly enough the above, and you will find that your dog will get closer and closer to making wonderful decisions all on their own! Who should walk the dog? We sometimes get asked this question, and if all family members are available to walk your dog together or separately, you should be able to do so! Just make sure that you practice all options with your dog regularly. Even if you decided that your dog is mainly one house member's responsibility to feed and walk, please remember that your dog or puppy likely doesn't see things that way and that it takes a village. Ultimately the entire family will get to reap the benefits of a happy and fulfilled dog. When should you walk your dog? Outside of potty training breaks (which don't always need to lead to long walks and vice versa) you should be able to walk your dog whenever you'd like! If you have a young, inexperienced, or sensitive dog, you might to avoid super early or really late-night walks as that's when pet parents of reactive dogs tend to prefer to take theirs for a walk to minimize the chances of running into other dogs. Where should you walk your dog? Everywhere! Part of the fun of taking your dog for a walk is that they get to discover and take in new smells, which tells them so much about their environment. That said if your dog walks the same route each day, you're going to need to consider adding new and different destinations to your walks to further enrich your dog's experience and engagement with you. Considering a dog walker? Whether it's one on one dog walking or group/pack walks, we strongly recommend thoroughly reviewing the pros and cons of this idea. Nowadays our day-to-day world just seems to get busier and our schedules sometimes allow us very little personal time, making it difficult to find the time, or sometimes even just the energy and desire to walk our dogs and that's okay. This is why dog walkers exist and they can help ensure that your dog still gets their daily walks and comes home happy. There are more and more alternatives such as apps and websites that will facilitate this for you. My first suggestion is that you carefully interview the person with whom you are entrusting your dog's care. Other than your dog's physical safety, their mental well-being is something you want to closely monitor by knowing how each one of your dog's walks goes, through feedback, in order to avoid any unwanted behavioural surprises that may come from them. If you decide to get a dog walker, still do your best to find time to engage and do activities with your dog either indoors or outdoors. Even a few minutes here and there will ensure that you continue nurturing and caring for the relationship you have together. To wrap things up, don't forget to make your dog walks fun for you and your dog! The more engaging they are, the more fulfilling and beneficial they will be for you and your dog. Even better if you try bringing toys or games with you, as well as their kibble or treats, for them to have to scavenge along the way. This can be a great way to keep their mood up and reward them for choosing to focus their attention on you, despite all the distracting things around you both!

Start with the basics and keep your training sessions short. The ideal scenario with commands or any cues you do with your dog is that they work and feel as good for you AND your dog. If your dog enjoys doing them, he/she is more likely to want to repeat them in the future. Begin with sit, down, stay, and come. These are great first practiced at home first, prior to in a social setting. When you feel ready to do them outside of your home or in a more social environment, what you want to pay attention to is just how distracting or exciting that may be for your dog, as it can add difficulty to what you normally expect from your dog's behaviour. Whether you're practicing the basics or more advanced cue, if you would like for your dog to feel encouraged to repeat them with you, do your best to avoid using them anytime you dislike a behaviour your puppy is doing. Instead, practice distracting and redirecting them with a smell/toy instead until you have them feeling good and at ease once more. One other important element to consider is what the reward is. Dogs are happy doing things with you and for you but they also have preferences as to what they enjoy doing things for, as far as rewards go. If you're working in a distracting environment, and/or working on a new exercise, using a high value, rare treat that they don't get often is more likely to secure you the response you're hoping for, and later down the line you can work towards getting the same results but with lesser value treats.

Dog training encompasses everything from raising, understanding, guiding, and respecting dogs and everything they mean to us! Here are my training tips that I'd love to share with you, whether you just got a dog, or are working towards becoming a dog trainer. Here are some dog training tips for beginners. Let's start with the most important one! 1. Seek to understand, not to fix. No matter which dog you're working with, if you're looking to modify a behaviour and replace it with another, you will want to take a close look at what the potential cause is, that lies behind the issue in question. Ask yourself questions, take notes/logs of when and how the behaviour manifests itself, and go through little day-to-day scenarios where you can get a feel for how your environment is affecting your dog, to better understand him or her. 2. Use less cues or commands = more listening on both ends. You and I navigate society verbally, but if you want to truly understand your dog and build the best relationship possible, you will want to practice communicating with them more by listening and guiding them, as opposed to relying on cues and commands often. Verbal communication with your dog is great and essential, but when just starting to get to know your dog or tackle something new with them, pay close attention to how much you speak to them verbally, vs how much attention you put towards his or her actions. 3. Don't rush. Dogs are never in a rush, and neither should we. We love being and doing things with dogs because they remind us to live in the moment and make the most of what's in front of us today, not tomorrow. If you have a calendar, clock, or even just expectations of where you'd like to be 3, 6, or 12 months from now, as far as your relationship with your dog goes, please don't forget that your dog doesn't share those thoughts, and is simply doing his or her best to take things day by day with you. Subsequently, taking your time with your dog and not rushing them in their environment will make it so they're more likely to display comfortable and well-mannered behaviours, due to a lack of feeling stress, pressure, or any type of anxiety. 4. Get creative as often as possible, when it comes to providing your dog with enrichment. The more you can dedicate some time and effort in finding free or affordable enrichment options and fun games for your dog to do at home with or without you, the more likely you are to have a dog that feels happy, mellow, and fulfilled as a result! 5. Reward anything that your dog does that you like. Dogs don't know exactly how our world works, and the only way they get to figure that out is by trying things. This is why it's important that you put a lot of focus on going out of your way to acknowledge, pay attention to, and reward all the big and little things that your dog does on a daily basis, that you like. Especially with puppies! If he or she does something you like and you both feel good about it as a result, your dog is more likely to want to find ways to replicate that outcome.

Look for a nearby dog training school. That is the best and safest way to go as they will and should group puppies accordingly based on their age, size, demeanour, and play style. For environments where categorization isn't possible (perhaps because not many puppies of a similar age group are available to attend), you will want to make sure that you can attend the socialization sessions to ensure your dog is participating in safe and enjoyable for him/her. If your local training school doesn't offer socialization/play sessions for puppies, you can consider your local doggy daycare as they tend to provide play sessions for young dogs as well. Just make sure that they're properly supervised and short so that you can slowly increase the amount of time prior to having your pup attend regular daycare sessions. Do your best to avoid dog parks! Though we could write a lengthy article on why to avoid the dog park and/or what to consider before attending, we think that puppies (and most dogs under 8,9, 10 months) and their pet parents are likely not ready to attend unsupervised, busy dog parks. In the pet training industry, there are too many different takes and views on handling and raising and that's okay. But what you want to prioritize more than anything is your dog's physical and mental well-being!

Let's take a look at the top 5 best-selling feeding items on Amazon. It's interesting seeing what other pet parents are choosing and exploring how each item may/may not be beneficial for your dog or puppy and in which ways. let's take a look! #1. Dog Lick Pad with Suction Cups A great addition to your bag of dog items! Especially great for travel or when you want to take your dog on a road trip and want to make sure they can have a break licking the mat. Licky mats can be great to help keep your dog distracted when grooming, but they're not going to guarantee that your dog feels comfortable with every aspect of grooming and handling so keep that in mind! You can freeze and keep a couple of these in your freezer ready for when your dog or pup is having a hard time relaxing. I wouldn't recommend this as an activity for a bored/high-energy dog as they may not make much use of it or they may just try to chew it instead of licking. I like to use licky mats mostly to help young puppies settle and relax after exciting fun play or training activities. #2. Slow Feeder Bowl Perfect for slowing down a fast eater for sure! It'll also add a little extra fun to feeding time that regular feeding bowls don't provide. Are there better options available though? Is this a good solution for all dogs? If you've just brought home a really young puppy, this slow feeder can be a fantastic solution to encourage slow eating AND provide some mental enrichment. But there are definitely far better options that'll both slow down your dog's eating and help them burn some extra calories through a mental enrichment challenge! Particularly as your pup gets older, you might want to consider swapping this slow feeder for a combination of snuffle mats and food puzzles. #3. Food Puzzles Speaking of which! This is by far my favourite item on this list, as it shows us that pet parents are more and more interested in providing enrichment toys and mental stimulation outlets for their dogs at home. Puzzles are AMAZING at providing a light and fun outlet for your dog to get to use his or her brain to find each piece of their kibble (or even raw food!) while also slowing down how fast your dog eats which is a plus. Puzzles come in different types and levels of difficulty, but my tip would be to start with a more difficult one for your dog because you can always make it easier by helping your dog out. If you have a food puzzle that your dog finds too easy, you can always try wrapping it around in a towel to make it more engaging for your dog to find, and even in a box, for some extra snuffling fun! #4. Water Dispenser A water dispenser can be a great idea if you have a busy schedule and want to make sure your dog doesn't miss out on a single drop of water at home! There's one particular instance, however, where I would advise against using a water dispenser. During puppyhood! At this young age, you want to not only make sure that you're very closely monitoring your puppy's water intake to better manage potty training. But even more importantly, providing your puppy with food and water should be something that you get to do as they need it as a way to further bond with them and have them do amazing things with you! #5. Food Storage Container Combo There's nothing better than being organized in your life, AND in your pup's! Keeping your dog's food and treats in labeled containers can make it really easy for you (or someone dog sitting) to access. One more thing you can do is keep your dog's food in its original bag that it came in, to further keep it fresh and smelling stronger. When it comes to puppy training, you may also want to consider keeping some additional treats in jars and small containers located in different, common areas of your home so that you can easily reward good behaviour!

There are a few reasons to consider. The first and most common one could be that your dog may be feeling bored (or understimulated, especially if you tend to practice activities and games with your dog that he/she no longer finds challenging or as stimulating as before). Another common reason a dog feels hyper, especially after having exercised and played, is that they haven't yet learned and practiced how to relax and manage their own emotions under different circumstances. Similarly to the idea of tucking children in at night with a bedtime story, we can also guide dogs to help them go from an excited, agitated, and restless state to a calm one. And so in a similar manner, it's usually a problem pet parents encounter with their dogs within their first few years as they grow from puppyhood to adolescenthood, to adulthood. This is because young dogs will need time to reach full maturity, mentally and emotionally, and this is where it can seem to be a difficult task when it comes to helping your dog feel relaxed and mellow in all types of different situations. What you can do: An easy exercise you can practice is to provide your dog with a food puzzle or snuffle mat after a physically demanding activity, to help their brain focus on a more calming task like using their nose which at the same time helps them relax, slow down & regulate their feelings. The activity of snuffle, and above all employing their scent detection skills and scavenging nature is a near guarantee to help any dog relax. Add to this a frozen Kong that they can spend some time on and you'll have yourself a dog that is keeping busy by chewing and above all licking, which also helps dogs soothe and feel at ease once more. If nose and scent-related exercises aren't helping your dog feel more mellow in your home, it would be best to reach out to a nearby trainer so they can visit and assess your dog's home environment, before recommending a few positive reinforcement options you can try!

1. The environment is too distracting or overstimulating at that moment. Even if you've been there before, or believe it's a scenario your dog should be able to handle, if you’re feeling as though your dog isn't listening to you at that moment in that particular environment, the best thing you can do is encourage your dog to take distance by walking away and doing something less challenging for them, to help you both reconnect. This will help your dog cool down until you feel that you're able to communicate with one another once more, before trying again. If most environments seem to have this effect on your dog, it could be a sign that he/she is in need of a more controlled and manageable setting first, and scenarios focused more on you both accomplishing a single or few exercises together (such as agility training, nosework, etc). Both will help your dog feel mentally and physically fulfilled and are also available mostly as group classes. 2. There may be a disconnect in your communication. If listening to your voice and responding to your every word/cue consistently yields a rewarding and enjoyable outcome for your dog, such as a positive reinforcer (meaning they get something they want like treats, your attention, a toy, etc) then they are much more likely to pay close attention to your communication towards them, under most circumstances. However if your verbal guidance doesn't always associate itself with your dog's positive emotions that way, then he or she is much more likely to disconnect and disengage from your communication and overall guidance, especially in more distracting scenarios. To avoid feeling a disconnect, practice saving your voice, your attention, and most of your cues for interactions that not only mean the most to you but also mostly for moments when your dog has done something you're genuinely happy with. This will only serve to increase the value of your voice, praise, and overall attention. Pay close attention to your daily interactions with your dog, as chances are that there are small things that your dog is doing on a regular basis that you can start focusing your attention, voice, and commands towards, more than ever before in order to reconnect further. As you work on enhancing your connection and communication, you will then feel more confident tackling environments where you previously felt a disconnect, once again. 3. Your dog is feeling overly tired/overwhelmed/over their threshold. This can happen anywhere, at any time, and under any circumstance. Our world doesn't make 100% sense to all dogs and it affects them individually. But not only that, dogs are by nature curious and sensitive in ways we may not always fully understand. However, just like us, dogs can have bad days, or simply feel like they're not in the right mood or mindset right there and then. This can get in the way of even the strongest pet-parent-dog relationships and that's okay. The first step is realizing that your dog may need a break from that scenario altogether and if walking away is not possible, then you can try providing them with a frozen, stuffed Kong to help them chew on, lick, and self-soothe or a strong but enjoyable smelly treat to help focus their thoughts and feelings a little. The next step is reviewing what they were doing, for how long, and how they were feeling every moment before you experienced difficulty communicating with one another. That game of fetch might have gone for too long, or been too exciting, or perhaps their food puzzle was too hard, or too engaging to begin with. This is when it may be a great idea to change scenery, walk away, take a break, and do something else for a bit. In all three instances above, one thing they all have in common is that they will challenge you to lower, adjust and lower your expectations when interacting with your dog if you're having difficulties. If you make it a habit of practicing more habits where you find yourself listening and paying close attention to your dog's feelings and emotions, you will discover the patterns and daily habits that got them to that point, to begin with. Don’t forget that dogs are both products of their environment and individuals! No matter the reason, be sure that you have all the right tools with you! One of my personal favourites tools to use to help my dog take space as needed is a hands-free leash! Particularly indoors, where you can safely tie or clip it to your waist, leaving your hands free to focus on exchanging treats for good behaviour and more.

This is a common issue pet parents face, mostly with young dogs and puppies, especially when the weather is pleasant and more and more people want to say hi to your pooch while on walks! But what can you do to best tackle your dog's constant jumping on people, and even better, how can you make sure you prevent it to the point it becomes a behaviour your dog no longer finds purposeful? (Because yes, your dog is doing it for a reason!) Let's start with what the reason behind this behaviour might be. The most common motive behind your dog jumping on other people may be two-fold: 1. It works! Like all other behaviours your dog does, it's mainly because it pays off for him and that can be in a number of ways. The main way in which jumping on other pays off is in what they get in return which is attention, whether it comes from you (even though you're not trying to praise or reward them, your attention is) or from the person they're jumping on. It's rather difficult to expect of the person getting jumped on to not react and give your dog any kind of attention, in order to avoid reinforcing the unwanted behaviour, especially when your dog is coming off friendly and/or when the person in question doesn't know that this is a behaviour you're working on managing. A tool that could help would be a label or sleeve that goes on your dog's leash or harness that lets others know to not pet or engage with your dog, or that he/she is in training. But something more that you can do in this case to yield far better results is to go for the preventative approach, to avoid having to manage a scenario that is largely not under your control and that you and your dog aren't fully ready for anyway. The best way you will prevent your dog from jumping and getting reinforced by other people is to become familiar with the body language patterns and signs that let you know that your dog is going to be jumping on them so that you can right away do your best to engage your dog with a different activity/behaviour, that you like better instead. Such as walking away and tugging on a toy with you, fetching a ball, or walking away with you and tossing treats for them to search through the grass or under a chair if you're indoors. Prevention is key but will only work if you're in tune with your dog's demeanour and patterns so that you can try to prevent them from doing the unwanted behaviour altogether. The more they get to practice it, the more they are likely to repeat it. The more you find yourselves ready with a leash and treats/reinforcers ready, the more successful you will be. These are the best ways you can manage greetings with minimal jumping on strangers, while you practice working on your dog's greeting with people in your close circle that will be able to help you in responding accordingly, should/when your dog happens to jump on them. More on this on the following point. 2. Your dog has a very social nature and/or is a high-energy dog! You can't train a dog's personality and demeanour out of them, but you can definitely find ways to get what you want if you also focus your efforts on ensuring your dog gets what he/she needs on a regular basis. If you live with a social AND energetic dog, you will want to make sure that you provide him with regular outlets for their need to play, jump, be excited, and be friendly, otherwise, they will find those outlets on their own and can result in more jumping on others, or other unwanted behaviours. Great outlets consist of dog training classes of different types, supervised play sessions, agility training, and other controller enrichment/engaging settings. And don't worry, your dog getting to practice jumping in a setting like play sessions, for example, can be different and not at all encouraging further jumping outside of those environments because dogs have a very strong capability to associate behaviours to places/scenarios we put together. This is done by rewarding your dog for being themselves mostly and mainly in that particular setting, but not as much (if at all) outside of it. Just like how you know that you can act a different way at a restaurant and another way at a concert. But then what follows that? What follows your dog having the outlets he/she needs? You. You and the environments you create where you are bringing home a happy, fulfilled, tired do that is less likely to feel the need to jump on the next stranger you encounter on that evening walk. But that's only part of the solution, the other part (especially when you've just begun tackling this behaviour) is having the environments you work in tandem with where you and your dog are at. This means that instead of practicing walking your dog past strangers in the hopes that he doesn't jump on them, you'll want to practice with people that know you and your dog, so that you can ahead of time let them know that if ever your dog jumps at them, that you would appreciate it if they did their best to not respond to your dog's jumping until/unless he's saying hello to them without. The combination of a dog that doesn't feel as much of a need to jump on people, along with an environment that doesn't put much (or any), attention to the unwanted behaviour WHILE ALSO rewarding and acknowledging the moment your dog does make the choice to not jump or to stop jumping, is what will help you and your dog succeed! If ever you're finding that your dog might be jumping on other people, but even more so you, then you may want to consider what your dog is trying to communicate to you there and then. This is because jumping on you or another pet parent can be a way of communicating that they're feeling overwhelmed, tired, overstimulated or even anxious at that moment, or about the environment they're in. This would require a closer look at when it's happening as adjusting the environments in question and our expectations is what will also help you in your success as well.

There are a few reasons why your dog may be counter-surfing right now. Though it's not the most troublesome of behaviours, it can be an indicator of some common issues that we can easily prevent and manage so that dinner time is enjoyable for all! Let's start with your dog's feeding habits/rituals. If they're not into their food, they may be counter-surfing or even begging for other food because it's a means to eating something they prefer. You can read this article if your dog isn't into their food. If your dog does eat his food but would rather try to get to the food you're having or anything that's being left on the counter, one way that you can help manage the environment to help them keep all four on the ground is to provide them with food puzzles or snuffle mats that'll further engage their attention. Tried the above and your dog is still counter-surfing? Consider the following: 1. Is your dog feeling bored/does feeding time = getting attention time? Counter-surfing, begging or whining can be signs that your dog has found in those activities a little bit of a 'problem' or a game to take on if they're feeling bored or understimulated. It can also be something they practice when they're too tired and don't know how to rest (see the second point for more details) on their own. And so what you will want to do is plan accordingly, to set yourself and your dog up for success by doing physically, mentally and even socially-stimulating activities not too long before lunchtime or dinner time, to help your dog feel more mellow and relaxed. A dog that's feeling more mellow is one that's more receptive to training or receiving your guidance, as opposed to one that is feeling very energetic, and simply looking for some engaging outlets to put that energy towards! 2. Provide your dog with an alternative. If your dog doesn't know what to do, simply confronting and telling them to not jump or counter-surf will likely not work. Instead, you will want to provide your dog with an alternative that feels just as good, or even better, for them to practice instead of counter surfing. If you've practiced the first point above, then it should be doable to guide your dog with their leash towards their bed, wait for them to lay down and reward them with a special treat before dinner time, as to let them know that they have something they can do on their own end WHILE you focus on dinner. Each dog will respond to this differently. Dogs that have learned this type of relaxation exercise in class may have an easier time staying in that position/feeling on their own. If your dog keeps getting up you will want to gently guide them back to their bed. With enough practice and repetition, your dog will learn that what you're asking of them is to wait on it (and ensure it pays off with a high-value reward, especially the first times you try this.). If your dog has a really hard time staying away from you and the action, you may need to consider the point below as well. 3. If being away and giving you distance is something that's very difficult for your dog, then it's going to take some time. While your dog is learning that it's enjoyable and rewarding to give you space during dinner time, you will still want to ensure that you're preventing counter-surfing altogether. Because even if your dog isn't yet doing the behaviour you want (waiting elsewhere while you eat) you want to make sure that you practice making it so they can't practice the unwanted behaviour. And you can do so by assigning a member of your household that will help walk your dog away as he gets closer to the table or kitchen area. Walking away ensures that your dog doesn't get to jump or counter-surf and it's eventually the action that you will want your dog to do all on their own (especially if it's difficult for them to simply stay and wait somewhere else) so be sure to make it fun and rewarding for them to walk away from the table with you. Simply repeating this exercise of walking, in combination with the first two points will create for a little bit of an exercise that burns any extra mental or physical energy your dog may have, which can then encourage them to naturally want to take a break and not feel the need to counter-surf.

It's a common problem for many households, to see their dog not be interested in their food. Leaving this concern unattended could potentially lead to health-related issues, and it could also be a possible sign of a few behavioural challenges that aren't healthy for your dog's overall mindset and well-being. In this blog post, we'll be taking a look at what those reasons may be, and what you can do about it! Let's start with the more obvious item to consider which would be the taste of your dog's food. Since dogs taste their food by smelling it, if their food doesn't happen to come with a strong enough scent, it would make it less appetizing for your dog. If you're worried that your dog isn't interested in his or her food due to its flavour, you will want to first take this up with your dog's veterinary (if unsure, please get a second opinion from different vets) so that they may provide you with different options you can consider and try. Oftentimes the answer lies in simply providing your dog with a bit more variety, whether it's about alternating between different flavours of dog food and/or mixing them together. So long as no health risks are involved, this is where you will want to start! If you've tried this and seen no improvement in your dog's desire to eat, the next thing you will want to consider is if your dog has other options or other access to food (more likely human food) that isn't meant for him but that he prefers over his. Dogs are smart animals and if waiting and holding off means they will get something they prefer over their food, they will. And so you want to make sure that the only option for your dog is their own food, for consistency reasons as well as safety and putting their own health first, with their regular food that's recommended for them. If you've got the best dog food ready, and you're making sure that your dog has no other ways of getting to more tasty/human food, then there's one more very important element you want to consider, and it applies to all animals. When and How is your dog getting his food? By nature, animals have to do amazing things to get access to the food they want and need. Elephants travel long distances to find water, leopards hunt each meal they get, and stray dogs scavenge and search for every scrap available. This means that the natural instinct that your dog has to do something to obtain their next meal is just as important as the meal itself. And so you'll want to reevaluate how your dog gets to have their food in the first place. Is it by waiting for table scraps to drop? Or is it via a bowl that doesn't provide them with much of an activity to get to their food? These details are very important for your dog, especially young, energetic/smart dogs that love doing things with you before/while being rewarded with food. What you will want to try next is reconfiguring how your dog gets their food. Something easy you can do is try re-introducing it during walks (you might want to mix treats in to begin) and even toss pieces of their kibble as you walk to turn it more into a scavenging-like activity. This is also fantastic for burning mental energy while on walks. Another idea in combination with the walk is to use food puzzles and snuffle mats indoors. You may want to try those AFTER a walk or after a fun game of fetch, or tug & pull where your dog would've gotten rid of a bit of their physical energy, in order to then more easily focus on how to use their nose and brain to get to their meal. Bonus tip! If nothing works, you will want to try exercises like agility games indoors where you and your dog go out of your way to go through fun games together where your dog needs to overcome obstacles and engaging tricks together to increase their appetite in their food (you may need to mix in some treats here as well to start!)!

✔️ Makes it easy for you to know when your puppy is waking up/getting up There's nothing better for a pup than feeling like his/her needs are met before they even ask for it! A cat bell is a great tool that you can use that lets you know when your puppy is waking up or getting up from their bed, which can then help you prevent unknown potty training accidents or a pup that's getting bored! Useful for households with young puppies or small dogs! 10/10

✔️ Allows you to reward calm behaviour at a distance ✔️ Allows you to supervise your dog as you create distance The Furbo Dog Camera can definitely be an asset when first training and preventing separation anxiety. Mainly because it allows you to see what and how your dog is reacting to their environment while you're away. Being able to respond early and fast enough can help you prevent unwanted behaviours. Useful for households with dogs staying alone for long periods of time! 8.5/10

✔️ Darkens crate area & minimizes noise, helping your dog sleep better/for longer ✔️ Similar to a den-like environment Crate covers are amazing for dogs to be able to have their own den-like room that will encourage better and longer sleep! Puppies will have an easier time sleeping in a setup that is darker and cooler, so a crate cover can be a great tool to help encourage your puppy to want to spend time in it! Must-have! 10/10

✔️ Serves as an additional treat and reward that you provide for your dog ✔️ Provides you with an extra opportunity to engage with your dog while monitoring their water intake There are never too many instances where you can take a moment to reconnect with your dog and share a treat together. This treat in this instance is water and if you have a puppy, you can use this water bottle to keep track of their daily intake, to better prevent unwanted potty training accidents. Must-have! 10/10

✔️ Helps your dog cool off during warm weather or after physical games and exercises ✔️ Feeling cool will allow your dog to more easily be able to rest/sleep Place the cooling mat inside your freezer and bring it out whenever you think your dog might be feeling a bit too warm, especially during summer, and particularly if you have a medium/long-haired breed. Most useful for highly active dogs, and medium and long-haired breeds. 9.5/10

✔️ Builds on you & your dog's existing bond ✔️ Useful both indoors & outdoors Got a really smart and energetic dog? Agility equipment is one of the easiest ways to turn your home or backyard into the most fun and engaging environment for you and your dog! You can keep the exercises light and easy, as you and your dog learn to work together to accomplish your goals, while further strengthening your bond and focus together. Definitely recommend! 10/10

✔️ Safer to use for walking than any collar ✔️ Doesn't provide corrections/punishment ✔️ More easily redirects a dog's movements Likely the best and safest dog-walking tool available. The misconception of harnesses is that they increase pulling. Harnesses, like any other tool, will not address, prevent or fix an unwanted behaviour without the support of proper dog training, patience, and positive reinforcement. Freedom (No-Pull) Harnesses come with two clips, ad the front one is the one you can rely on to most easily guide your dog to help redirect them when you think they may be pulling. Like with any dog training tool, proper training and doing so in ideal setups is what will ultimately help you find success with these harnesses. Definitely recommend! 10/10